ORU Presidential Seal
Recently I was privileged and honored to be ask to produce a replica of the Oral Roberts University Presidential Seal to be a focal point for the museum
that is going in on campus. For anyone interested, I am documenting my progress on the project and you can follow along as I work to complete the work
by April 1st. 2010.
The seal is being produced in wood using several species of wood veneers. The veneers range in thickness from .025 to .035 in thickness and I have
approximately 40 different veneers that I work with on a regular basis. For this project I will be using approximately 10 different woods from Olive wood to
Wenge to Walnut burl and others.
To me the art to marquetry or wood inlay is not so much the act of cutting the wood to get the shapes you need, but in picking the right woods and making
sure the grain is going in the right direction. Wood such as tiger maple, which I will be using in this project, has two different grain directions while holly has
practically none while burls have knotted grains that go in all directions. Color is important as well because I do not use any dies in my work so all the
colors you see are the natural colors of the woods.
that is going in on campus. For anyone interested, I am documenting my progress on the project and you can follow along as I work to complete the work
by April 1st. 2010.
The seal is being produced in wood using several species of wood veneers. The veneers range in thickness from .025 to .035 in thickness and I have
approximately 40 different veneers that I work with on a regular basis. For this project I will be using approximately 10 different woods from Olive wood to
Wenge to Walnut burl and others.
To me the art to marquetry or wood inlay is not so much the act of cutting the wood to get the shapes you need, but in picking the right woods and making
sure the grain is going in the right direction. Wood such as tiger maple, which I will be using in this project, has two different grain directions while holly has
practically none while burls have knotted grains that go in all directions. Color is important as well because I do not use any dies in my work so all the
colors you see are the natural colors of the woods.
The first part of the process is getting the art ready. I cut the
veneers with a 40 watt laser but I have to redraw each element of
the design and break it up into different componets and then
position them according to how I want the grain to go.
veneers with a 40 watt laser but I have to redraw each element of
the design and break it up into different componets and then
position them according to how I want the grain to go.
The next step is I make a smaller version as a prototype to
help select the wood. Just like the larger piece, each element
has to be broken out. Example, there are 7 different pieces for
the table cloth.
I burn the image on a piece of wood for the prototype in this
case it is 12" in diameter.
As a general rule, I will finish the prototype after the work is
finished using the same woods used on the larger version.
help select the wood. Just like the larger piece, each element
has to be broken out. Example, there are 7 different pieces for
the table cloth.
I burn the image on a piece of wood for the prototype in this
case it is 12" in diameter.
As a general rule, I will finish the prototype after the work is
finished using the same woods used on the larger version.
Next I start to pick the different wood veneers I'm going to use. Here is
a small sample of the 40 plus different woods that I have to choose
from. Again I have to pay attention to the grain as well as the color.
a small sample of the 40 plus different woods that I have to choose
from. Again I have to pay attention to the grain as well as the color.
By starting with a prototype, I can try different woods and
keep the amount of materials down to a minimum. It's easer
to cut a 4" piece to see how it will look than to cut a 24" piece
only to decide that wasn't the look you wanted.
When I cut the veneer, I then lay it out on the prototype and
hold it in place with blue masking tape.
keep the amount of materials down to a minimum. It's easer
to cut a 4" piece to see how it will look than to cut a 24" piece
only to decide that wasn't the look you wanted.
When I cut the veneer, I then lay it out on the prototype and
hold it in place with blue masking tape.
As I pick the different woods, I lay them up and then flip the
image over to check if it looks the same way it does in my mind.
Sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn't.
As you can see from the picture, I tried 4 different woods for the
background behind the letters. I won't tell you which one was
finally chosen, which one do you like the best.
Dr. and Mrs. Rutland came by the gallery and helped chose the
woods to be used. I've had to change a couple but don't let
them know. The grain just didn't work out on a larger scale.
image over to check if it looks the same way it does in my mind.
Sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn't.
As you can see from the picture, I tried 4 different woods for the
background behind the letters. I won't tell you which one was
finally chosen, which one do you like the best.
Dr. and Mrs. Rutland came by the gallery and helped chose the
woods to be used. I've had to change a couple but don't let
them know. The grain just didn't work out on a larger scale.
Once the woods and the design is finalized then it's time to
enlarge everything for the 5 foot piece.
Because the finished product is too large to fit in the laser I
broke it down into 20 different panels to create a grid. Once the
art was divided up into the different panels, each one was
engraved with the art for that particular panel.
enlarge everything for the 5 foot piece.
Because the finished product is too large to fit in the laser I
broke it down into 20 different panels to create a grid. Once the
art was divided up into the different panels, each one was
engraved with the art for that particular panel.
Once the panels are engraved, then they are laid out on the
base board, starting in the middle and working outward.
base board, starting in the middle and working outward.
Close up of two panels butted together.
Here all the panels are in place. The final shape won't be cut until the
designed is completed.
designed is completed.
Now I start cutting the veneers to lay out on the panels.
As each of the different components of the design is cut, they are then taped together in
reverse to check the woods. As you can see the bowl here isn't quite right, too many knot
holes for me, so the bowl get's scrapped.
reverse to check the woods. As you can see the bowl here isn't quite right, too many knot
holes for me, so the bowl get's scrapped.
I had the background cut, so I went ahead and added it to the tree line
with a hole for the Prayer Tower.
with a hole for the Prayer Tower.
A little closer look at the tree line which is walnut burl and the opening for the
Prayer Tower.
Prayer Tower.
There are 45 pieces in the tower. Don't forget your looking at the back, all the
detail is on the front, and yes, I put a flame on the top. That's my 000 screwdriver
and tweezer's laying on the wood.
detail is on the front, and yes, I put a flame on the top. That's my 000 screwdriver
and tweezer's laying on the wood.
Now I've started to glue the veneers to the base. Actually I had several glued down
before I remembered to take a picture. Gluing really isn't all that exciting.
before I remembered to take a picture. Gluing really isn't all that exciting.
One of the larger pieces consisting of three different cuttings.
Starting to work on the rope ring.
After four different tries with the wood, I finally got a bowl I liked. yep, that's scrap on the right. That's just two of the three rejects.
Now the fun part, getting down to the nitty gritty and putting the Prayer Tower
together in reverse with my tweezer's and screwdriver that I modified and
sharpened the point to pick tiny pieces of wood up with .
together in reverse with my tweezer's and screwdriver that I modified and
sharpened the point to pick tiny pieces of wood up with .
The rope is glued down and I'm covering the edge so when I put the glue down for the background
that holds the wording I don't get glue on the rope.
that holds the wording I don't get glue on the rope.
Now we begin putting the wording around the edge along with the letters. The
background is madrone burl and the lettering is made of wenge.
background is madrone burl and the lettering is made of wenge.
After the last black border is down, now comes the patch work. Wood is not perfect and so
it requires filling tiny knotholes and some gaps and flaws in the wood.
it requires filling tiny knotholes and some gaps and flaws in the wood.
Once the gaps and knotholes are filled, it's time to start the long process of sanding
everything so all the veneers are on the same level. You have to be careful with the
sanding because the veneers are only 25 thousandths of an inch thick so, too much in
one spot and you can go right through it. There is a lot of hand sanding involved to
take care of problem areas.
everything so all the veneers are on the same level. You have to be careful with the
sanding because the veneers are only 25 thousandths of an inch thick so, too much in
one spot and you can go right through it. There is a lot of hand sanding involved to
take care of problem areas.
HOWEVER!!!!! once the hand sanding is done, it's time to break out the electric one. Even
with the electric, there is several hours of sanding involved to make sure everything is as
perfect as you can get it working with wood.
with the electric, there is several hours of sanding involved to make sure everything is as
perfect as you can get it working with wood.
After several hours of sanding and several cups of coffee and tea you I finally reach the
point where it's time to cut the circle out. You notice the wood is a little dull.
point where it's time to cut the circle out. You notice the wood is a little dull.
Not to worry, I put a little lacquer on a small part to show you how the wood jumps out with the lacquer.
The circle is now cut and the edges will get sanded and a border glued on, then a final
sanding and then it's time to start putting on the sealer.
sanding and then it's time to start putting on the sealer.
| UPDATED 3/18/10 TO BE CONTINUED |
Yes that is a bottle of super glue on the edge of the table, a woodworkers best friend, it's
great for gluing down small slivers and it makes a great band aid for cut fingers too.
great for gluing down small slivers and it makes a great band aid for cut fingers too.